The whale sighting left me exhilarated and gleeful like john. But deeper down, i also remember feeling shaken like dave. Nothing about the animal registered to me as playful welcoming. It just appeared in the distance, then transited quickly past us from left to right. My uneasiness had something to do with the whale's great size and indifference, its obliviousness as it passed. Watching it made me feel profoundly out of place and register how large that wilderness was relative to me. Never then or now, have i been able to look at a cloudless sky at night and see beauty there, a kind of grandeur, yes, but not beauty. The profusion and variety

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