The Early Days of Professional Surfing

Hawaiian stylist Gerry Lopez couldn’t make a takeoff during his first time surfing Pipe in 1963 at age 13. Today, at 74, he is still widely known as Mr. Pipeline, after having devoted most of his life to the infamous patch of reef. His approach is the expression of a life lived in pursuit of stillness, mindfulness, and regard for the natural world. Sixty years after that inaugural and fateful session at “The Pipeline,” Lopez sits down to talk with show host Jamie Brisick about the importance of having a meditative state of mind in and out of the water, the moment Pipeline clicked for him, why he doesn’t remember many of his waves, the relationship between yoga and surfing, and pathways to a higher consciousness.