The Vaidokcha in Tuscany became a staging ground for some of the most bloody clashes between partisans and Nazi occupiers during World War II. The human mind doesn't just waggle at the fort, but a quote-unquote normal place from one day to the next can turn into a battlefield. In times of peace, it's always impossible to really, truly, vividly imagine war. As I think about the anniversary of the first war, my deepest hope is that there should not be a second.