Are You Still Chasing Big Swells?

"I couldn't say I don't have an interest in Jaws," he says. "If you said, there's this wave over here and there's no one there, and it's gonna be 200 feet ... Do you wanna go? I'd be like, I'll see you there." He adds: "It's something that's from my soul. It's from my spirit, it's from my life"