Surfing Is Meditation

Surfing is meditation surfsi brinb it's crazy though, like, there definitely is ta segway there. A lot of professional surfers in the early nineties suffered with alcohol and substance abuse. Some of em weren't that lucky, and now are finding peace back out in the ocean. When you are riding a wave, a wave that's being powered by the ocean, that will never break that same way again - nothing else matters. It doesn't matter if you fall, it doesn'tmatter if you suck ifyou're standing on the board being pushed by the ocean. There's nothing in the world that matters other than what you're doing in the moment. That