There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do.
Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise?
In this podcast, Eric discusses common training tangents, traps, and energy sinks, and he details 10 time-tested exercises/activities that are central to effective training for climbing.
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Podcast Rundown
4:10 - Opening comments about effective training for climbing.
4:45 - Importance of keeping an open mind about your training.
6:42 - Mention of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers -- go back and listen to podcast #37!
9:00 - Intro to 4 training tangents, traps, and energy sinks that rob you of time and energy...and dilute the quality of your training for climbing.
10:06 - You CAN achieve greater things than you can imagine today!
10:40 - #1 Training Tangent: Focusing on exercises and activities that create fatigue and consume time, but do little to really enhance climbing performance.
15:44 - #2 Training Tangent: Blindly copying another climber's workouts and training program.
17:22 - #3 Training Tangents: The shiny, new object at the gym...that is fun, engaging, and possibly high-tech...that consumes a lot of your focus and time but provides small (or negligible) performance gains given.
20:30 - Comments about the benefits of Auto-Regulation. Listen to podcast #20 for more coverage of Auto-Regulation.
25:00 - Comments on Blood Flow Restriction training - learn more in podcast #40.
28:00 - #4 Training Tangent: Constantly changing up your training...never sticking to a program for a month to be able to accurately gauge the results.
30:30 - Eric coaches you to "Plan your workout, then work your plan!"
32:45 - Please check out our podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save $10 or 15% on your online order! PhysiVantage is used by many of America's top boulders, sport climbers, and big wall crushers!
35:08 - 10 time-tested, back-to-basics exercises and activities that are central to effective training for climbing.
37:24 - #1: Climb frequently!
39:30 - #2: Hangboard train!
44:15 - #3: Weighted Pull-ups
45:35 - #4: Frenchies
48:08 - #5: Bouldering and System Wall climbing
50:15 - #6: Route climbing
54:34 - #7: Bouldering 4x4 Intervals
57:42 - #8: Campus board training
58:40 - #9: Running (in moderate doses)
1:01:21 - #10: Flexibility training (lower-body focus for hip turnout)
1:05:22 - Final thoughts....
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Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing.
Music by Misty Murphy
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