The Importance of Surfing

"I was much more drawn to everything that was happening culturally at my local surf spot," he says. "We had four of us in our school because there's only four serious surfers in my school." In one school, you could do it for anything if you were training to be an Olympian or a professional athlete. You sign up for it, then somebody, an adult professional, signs the papers and you get the free period.