And Then It Hit Me with Cory Allen cover image

Steven Kotler

And Then It Hit Me with Cory Allen

00:00

The Importance of Surfing

"I bankrupted myself trying to find a cure. I lost the dream house, the dream-grab," he says. "After three years, the doctors sort of pulled me off meds." He was functional only half an hour a day and his family didn't know if he would get better. After hours of her badgering him, 'she demands that I go surfing'

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