The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick cover image

Laird Hamilton

The Surfer’s Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick

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The Ego and Courage and Confidence Are Driving Forces in Everything in Life

I remember having a fascinating conversation with Tom Carroll shortly after he'd gotten sober. He said that getting sober made him evolve as a person, but also made him way more cautious in big waves. And I sometimes wonder if there's some of the great feats have a, are a result of a more immature sort of qualities within us. Well, yeah, just some pain, something going on. The chopa way for me, you know, I was going through a bad, a bad time in my relationship with Gabby at the time. So maybe I don't, I don't feel, I need to train as hard. Yeah.

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