EP 136: Dan Varian — High Angle Crimps, Silver Bullets in Finger Strength, and How to Activate Lazy Fingers
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
The Sling Test in Crimp Positions With Every Finger
"I think I'm stronger open hand. So my pinkies in a crimp position, I was able to lift about nine kilos and then open hand pinky about 16 kilos," he says. "So you're saying one of the standouts for you is that my open handPinky should be closer to 20 kilos." He adds: "It's just like doing wealth".
Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varian
Nuggets:
0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions
0:10:36 – Dan’s resume
0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness
0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people’s training
0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan’s attention to detail
0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK
0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts
0:26:40 – Aidan’s pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool
0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps
0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles
0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position
0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results
0:45:24 – Dan’s interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets
0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training
0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results
0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan
0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders
1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing
1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan’s guesses about my climbing based on the numbers
1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp
1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do
1:12:35 – Dan’s strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn’t apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things
1:14:56 – Dan’s advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers
1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan’s, and what he is working on with his finger training
1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor
1:30:24 – Dan’s recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers
1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau
1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font
1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county
1:46:35 – Dan’s top finger training exercise recommendation
1:48:11 – Dan’s thoughts on wrist training
1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars
1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete
2:03:34 – Dan’s training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes
2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)
2:15:02 – Dan’s final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers
2:16:49 – Dan’s goals for me with my finger training
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