The Importance of Commitment to Surfing

H henry was hired to work at malibu right when the crowds were getting out of control. The early surfers would be termed watermen there was a culture clash between those he calls the pure surfers and the cum late leaves who had essentially been inspired by gidget what's the pure surfer? A guy who's committed to it whether he works or not is not not that important, it's just the fact the commitment to it commitment to it being a discipline something that you believe in something that you love.