Surfing in the Impact Zone

"I was just sort of drifting in. But I drifted into this area that you don't want to drift into," he says. "This spot, it's like not that big of a wave, but it's just vicious." He gets spin-cycled and can't get out far enough under the sandbar for protection. The surfers we've talked about who surf this spot a lot have been hit by waves bigger than any they'd seen before.