What Made You Want to Be a Writer?

As a student before that, i had been very lack of lustre and a typical surf tudent. And then in the middle of my thirties, when i had just gotten a job teaching at an art school in new york city, i wrote a little article about surf films. That was what made me, that was what kind of pulled me out of the drug and alcohol diction. Ever since the mid nineties, i've been surfing in and around new york and, um, travelling when i can and writing about surfing.