EP 181: Charlie Schreiber, Adam Shahar, Noah & Benn Wheeler — Accidentally Flashing V13, Board Training, and Ultimate Dream Sends
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Comparing the Difficulty of V12 Climbing to Chess Ratings
A discussion about the challenges of climbing V12 and achieving a 1200 chess rating, with admiration for strong climbers and exploration of different chess styles and abilities.
It’s another Northeast takeover in Rocklands! Charlie Schreiber returns to the podcast and is joined by Adam Shahar, and brothers Noah and Benn Wheeler. Ethan Pringle joins us and keeps the fire stoked for this unhinged six-person podcast. The lads gave us the tick list from their first ten days in Rocklands, and we geeked out about board training, favorite FAs, and ultimate dream boulders and routes. Tune in for a dose of fun and inspiration with these young crushers!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-adam-noah-benn
Nuggets:
0:04:26 – Izzo’s legendary ascent of Eternia in Upper Chaos, and debating whether V12 or 1200 in chess is harder
0:09:15 – Youth worlds and these boys trips outdoors
0:14:47 – Charlie’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:19:06 – Adam’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:26:21 – The boys' skin
0:29:22 – Noah’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:34:01 – Ben’s tick list (first 10 days in Rocklands)
0:37:20 – Charlie’s coach role on the trip
0:38:21 – Remaining Rocklands goals, and goals back home
0:40:46 – Noah’s first weekend of outdoor bouldering, and Benn’s worn-out Nikes
0:42:56 – Getting hooked
0:51:47 – Home crags in the Northeast
0:55:16 – V17 monsters, and futuristic projects
0:57:11 – College plans, and projects in the South Platte
0:58:41 – Brother dynamics
1:00:45 – Sponsorships in climbing vs other sports
1:02:38 – Is there V17 potential in the Northeast?
1:04:06 – Plans to try established V16s
1:09:23 – Boulders the boys struggled with, and Charlie’s big win on Mooiste Meisei
1:16:37 – Favorite boulders in Rocklands, Troy’s send of Black Shadow, and plans to return for Livin’ Large and The Finnish Line
1:21:09 – How the Wheeler boys are different, and Benn’s World Cup aspirations
1:24:24 – Noah’s finger strength
1:26:16 – Board gods
1:34:33 – Board grades vs. Rocklands grades
1:37:38 – Noah’s experience of gaining finger strength and risking injury on the Moonboard
1:38:51 – Using the hangboard for rehab and testing
1:40:17 – Nationals, and comp specialists
1:42:04 – Is board climbing the key to climbing hard on rock?
1:42:43 – Adam’s weaknesses
1:43:26 – Noah’s weaknesses
1:46:52 – Winning with your strengths and not losing because of your weaknesses
1:49:37 – Benn’s weaknesses
1:52:37 – Adam’s proudest FAs
1:54:14 – Noah’s proudest FAs
1:56:03 – Another proud FA from Adam
1:57:34 – Benn’s proudest FAs
1:59:23 – Charlie’s proudest FAs
2:01:36 – Ethan’s FA of Wet Dream when he was 17
2:06:29 – Ethan’s proudest highball FA, and other highballs in Bishop
2:08:13 – Ethan’s big wall FA in Greenland in 2012
2:09:33 – My FA of Pale Horse
2:10:49 – Ultimate dream boulders (and routes)
2:18:05 – Sport climbing aspirations
2:19:24 – Three more goals each
2:24:07 – Airstar
2:26:05 – Ethan and I share our three goals for our remaining time in Rocklands
2:32:16 – These boys are the future
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