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To Save a Life on the North Shore

Outside Podcast

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I've Been in Recovery for About a Month Now, What's That Been Like?

"I feel oddly at peace with myself right now. And and the surf and, and, you know, i'm just going to take it day by day," he says. "The waves, by the way, have been going off a pieplane." He adds: "Being able to spend this bonous time with my daughters that im mhy not have been heor being a committed big wave surfer like cole"

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