EP 166: Will Bosi — Sending ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17, Dream Projects, and Functional Finger Strength vs. Party Tricks
The Nugget Climbing Podcast
The Mystery of Climbing
Hard climbing is just so weird hard climbing is so weird yeah exactly. i don't know if we really even know as a climbing community how to think about that when it comes to the grade like the learnability of a climb. I feel bad in the fingerboard now the last couple years it's gotten way down hill from where it was.
Will Bosi is a 24-year-old climber from Scotland who has emerged as one of the best climbers in the world. This interview is hot off the press! Will made the second ascent of ‘Burden of Dreams’ V17 less than two weeks ago and joins us for a proper geek out about the send. We talked about his process of projecting the replica and the actual boulder, his feats of finger strength and where to draw the line between party tricks and useful strength, doing the second ascent of ‘Mutation’ at Raven Tor, his absolute dream project, and much more!
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Show Notes:
thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-bosi
Nuggets:
(00:00:00) – Intro
(00:05:18) – The emotions we experience after a big send, and looking for new projects in Scotland
(00:07:56) – How sending Burden of Dreams has changed his self-perception, and the style of hard project that Will is searching for
(00:10:53) – Being from Scotland and currently based in Sheffield
(00:12:17) – Following Will’s journey trying the replica with Aidan and Stefano, live streams from Finland, and taking seven years for Burden to get repeated
(00:15:38) – Mutation continuing to go unrepeated again after Will did it
(00:17:23) – Is Will the first person to have climbed V17 and 5.15c? (9A boulder and 9b+ sport)
(00:20:07) – Will’s first time trying the Burden replica in Aidan’s shed
(00:23:32) – Will’s thoughts on Shawn’s progress on Burden
(00:25:10) – The warmup game on Burden, and the last move
(00:30:16) – Will’s standard training session, and what his process looked like training on the Bruden replica
(00:33:45) – Doing the first move 5 times in a session, and feeling stronger every session
(00:36:26) – How similar the replica is to the actual boulder, and what surprised Will the most when he tried Burden
(00:41:12) – How Will’s beta compared to Nalle’s, and the heal hook beta
(00:46:17) – What a full session looked like on the replica, and how that compared to a session on the actual boulder
(00:51:28) – His skin when he sent the boulder, feeling strongest on his first try of the day, and the send
(00:54:48) – How long a pair of shoes lasts on the boulder
(00:57:33) – Will’s shoe selection for Burden, and struggling with the second move
(00:58:53) – The pulley setup on the replica, comparing it to Katie Lamb’s experience on Spectre, and the usefulness of power spots
(01:08:50) – Will replicas change the way we think about flashing boulders?
(01:12:03) – The future of replica training, and the Alphane replica in Aidan’s shed
(01:15:35) – Will’s thoughts on the grades of Burden, Alphane, and his FA Honey Badger
(01:26:27) – Will’s feats of finger strength on the hangboard
(01:30:57) – Where is the line between party tricks vs. functional finger strength?
(01:34:21) – A breakdown of Mutation 9a+/b
(01:38:24) – Bigger edge training vs. micros
(01:40:52) – How often throughout the year Will does his go-to style of training session, and building volume vs. intensity
(01:46:28) – Will’s absolute dream in climbing, and his experience on Excalibur 5.15c (9b+)
(01:49:10) – Breakdown of the moves on Excalibur
(01:52:21) – What’s next for Will, and potential plans for the summer
(01:53:59) – Will’s thoughts on endurance training, and his story of sending Estado Critico 9a
(01:55:13) – Being more thoughtful about your climbing
(01:57:17) – Feeling excited to relax and chill, and plans to release a film of Burden
(01:58:22) – Subscribe to Will’s YouTube channel for send footage!
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