11. Writing on the Wall
Lost Hills: Dark Canyon
00:00
Introduction
Chris Malloy is a documentary filmmaker who moved to Hawaii to be a professional big wave surfer in the 90s. He's part of that Kelly Slater generation of surfers who grew up on Mickey Dora lore. I'm visiting Chris at his sprawling ranch on California's Central Coast, where he and his wife are raising three kids on a hundred acres.
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